Theatrical makeup is a type of makeup used to help create the look of characters that actors play during a theater performance.

Background

In Greek and Roman theatre, actors did not need makeup. Instead, they wore different masks to act as someone of a different gender, age, or look completely different. Thespis, known as the first actor, used white lead and wine to paint his face. In medieval Europe, actors changed how they looked by painting their faces different colors. Actors who played God painted their faces white or gold; those who played angels painted their faces red. During the Renaissance, actors used creative methods to change their looks. They used lamb's wool to make fake beards and flour to paint their faces.

Improvements in stage lighting changed how makeup was used. Early theatres used candles and oil lamps, which gave weak light and led to simple, not realistic makeup. When gas lights, limelight, and electric lights were introduced, new makeup materials and better techniques were needed. In 1873, Ludwig Leichner, a Wagnerian opera singer, started selling a safe greasepaint stick, which made it easier to apply makeup.

Highlight and shadow

Makeup, especially highlighting and shading, can change how an actor's face appears. Highlighting makes bony areas of the face more visible, while shading dark areas adds depth. These techniques can create the look of sagging jowls, forehead wrinkles, eye pouches, and visible veins. A highlight is a makeup product that is two shades lighter than the skin tone. It is applied on the nose bridge, cheekbones, under the eyes, and below the eyebrows. A makeup color that is two shades darker than the skin tone adds depth and definition. This darker shade is often used in eye sockets, to make the sides of the nose appear thinner, to make cheeks look flatter, and to reduce the appearance of heaviness under the chin.

Makeup and lighting

Lighting plays a major role in how makeup looks. If stage lighting is not correct, makeup might not look good. However, good lighting can help make makeup look better. It is very important for the lighting director and the makeup artist to work together closely to achieve the best results.

Understanding how light affects makeup colors and pigments is important when creating a performer's makeup. Here are some basic rules about light: objects do not have color unless light bounces off them; an object looks black if it absorbs all the light; an object looks white if it reflects all the light. If some light is absorbed and some is reflected, the reflected light determines the color.

• Pink makes cool colors look gray and makes warm colors look brighter. Yellow becomes more orange.
• Flesh pink is a good choice for most makeup.
• Fire red color can ruin makeup. Most skin tones except dark ones almost disappear. Light and medium reds blend with the base makeup, while dark reds turn reddish brown. Yellow becomes orange, and cool colors turn gray or black.
• Bastard amber is a good choice because it highlights warm pink and skin tones in makeup.
• Amber and orange make skin tones look brighter, and yellow makes skin tones look more vivid. These colors also make reds look more orange. Cool colors become gray.
• Green makes all skin tones and reds look gray, depending on how strong the green is. Green becomes more intense. Yellow and blue become greener.
• Light blue-green makes the base colors less intense. It is best to use very little red in this type of light.
• Green-blue makes pale skin tones look less bright and turns medium and dark skin tones gray. It also makes reds look less bright.
• Blue makes most skin tones look gray and can make them look more red or purple.
• Violet makes orange, flame, and scarlet colors look redder. Red makeup looks more intense.
• Purple has a similar effect to violet lighting, but reds and oranges look even more intense, and most blues look violet.

Straight makeup

Straight makeup is a style that creates a natural, clean, and healthy look. When a performer's skin is even in tone, makeup spreads smoothly and sticks to the skin easily. If the skin is too dry or too oily, special steps are taken before applying makeup. Otherwise, the makeup may look patchy or smudged because of how the skin absorbs products. Performers with dry skin use moisturizer every day and after performances. Performers with oily skin use a facial toner wipe or astringent to remove oil and prepare the skin for smooth makeup application.

Skin has four basic tones: brown, fair, pink, and olive. People with fair, pink, or olive skin tones use olive, beige, or suntan bases. Makeup artists and performers choose shades that match the natural skin tone, but the base is usually one to several shades darker. Performers with pink or ruddy skin use base colors with cool tones. The character being portrayed, the size of the theater, and the brightness of the lights decide how deep the foundation's tone should be.

A thin layer of base makeup is applied to the face, ears, and neck using a white rubber sponge or fingers. Applying too much base makes the skin look old and unnatural. Fair skin tones are enhanced with soft peach and pink shades, while brown skin tones look best with coral shades. Moist powder is applied before dry powder, and dry rouge is used to highlight the already powdered makeup.

Eyes and eyebrows are the most expressive parts of a performer's face. Grease or stick shadow is applied to the eyelids and blended toward the eyebrow bone before powder is added. Dry eye shadow is used alone or to intensify the color under the powder. Dark eye shadow or grease makes the eye sockets look deeper, creating a skull-like effect. Brown and gray shades work best for fair skin tones. Brown skin tones use lighter shades like toast, mushroom, or soft yellow.

Liquid eyeliner, cake eyeliner, or an eyebrow pencil is used to define and frame the eyes. There are two ways to line the upper lid: the owl eye or the almond eye. The owl eye uses a heavier line in the middle of the lid to make the eye look wider. The almond eye extends the line beyond the outer corner of the eye. The lower lid is lined using the same tool as the upper lid, starting a quarter-inch from the inner corner. This space helps make the eye look open.

Mascara adds attention to the eyes. Black lash mascara is most commonly used by women with fair or brown skin tones. Very fair individuals and men use brown mascara. The bottom lashes are coated with mascara. To avoid using false lashes, a layer of powder and mascara is applied to make lashes look thicker.

A lot of powder is needed to reduce shine. If not enough powder is used, skin oils may cause shine or makeup to run. After applying powder to the entire face, starting under and around the eyes, it is gently pressed for thirty seconds. Excess powder is brushed off with a large soft brush or cotton. A wet natural sponge or cotton is wiped across the face to set the makeup, remove visible powder, and reduce the masky feeling.

Clear powders are used for fair skin tones because they do not change the color of the base, under-rouge, or moist eye shadow. Brown skin tones use tinted powder that matches the base color. It is used sparingly over the under-rouge and moist eye shadow. After applying powder, dry eye shadow and dry rouge are added.

Although eyes are the most expressive part of the face, the audience follows mouth movements to understand a play. If a performer's lips are too light or too dark, it may distract from the performance. A general rule is: the larger the mouth, the darker the lipstick tone. However, the actor should not appear "all mouth."

Fair skin tones use pink or coral lipstick shades. Brown skin tones look best with coral or orange shades. Red lipstick is used in large theaters or for character roles. An auburn or brown pencil is used to define the lips. Lipstick on men can look too feminine, so men use natural-colored lipsticks applied lightly.

Training and education

Stage actors are often seen from a distance, so their makeup must be more dramatic and professionally applied. Colleges and universities with drama departments teach all parts of theater, including theatrical makeup. Some independent schools and online classes also offer training in this area. Through these programs, makeup artists learn skills like hand-eye coordination, drawing straight lines and consistent shapes, creativity, and maintaining good personal hygiene. Many professionals who specialize in theatrical makeup create portfolios to display their work to employers and clients. Some work as freelance artists, while others are employed by cosmetics companies in department stores.

Stage Makeup vs. Screen Makeup

Stage makeup is used to make facial features and expressions more visible to people watching from far away, especially under bright or changing lights. Screen makeup is applied more gently because cameras can show small details, and lighting on film and television sets is usually controlled to avoid harsh effects. The methods, tools, and strength of makeup differ between stage and screen to meet each medium's needs for visibility and artistic purposes.